It’s a drizzly day as I drive across the Queensboro Bridge to Sutton Place in Manhattan. I’m visiting Robert Rufino, a born-and-raised New Yorker and man about town who has had the kind of career that makes perfect sense in retrospect, but could hardly be planned in advance. As I walk into his foyer, the picture starts to come together. There are objects, paintings, furniture, and all manner of hints of a life well-lived.
Max Raab & The Magic Of A Quaker Marine Hat
Learn about the legendary sportswear pioneer, film producer, Philadelphia native, and avid Quaker Marine wearer who made the introduction that eventually led to our relaunch.
There’s a hat on a desk in our Brooklyn design studio. It looks as though its owner, Max Raab, forgot it and is about to walk back through the door to reclaim it. How we wish that was possible! Max was a great friend and legendary human being. He died in 2008 and when Merle, his widow, gave the hat and this photo to Kevin, our creative director, last summer, it brought back a lifetime of memories.
Back in 1976, Kevin was working for an exclusive preppy clothing store on New York’s Upper East Side. The owner had tasked Kevin with visiting various vendors to cancel their orders so most people weren’t too happy to see him. But, when Kevin showed up at the J. G. Hook office in the Fuller Building at 57th and Madison Avenue, Max, the owner, simply shrugged and said, “comme çi, comme ça,” and they became friends.
From the first meeting in the J. G. Hook offices to the day he died, Max was a wonderful mentor and friend to Kevin. Max loved sailing catamarans and catboats off the Jersey Shore and in the Caribbean and he always wore Quaker Marine hats. One day, he introduced Kevin to Joe Kadison, a fellow Philadelphian and WWII Coast Guard vet who started the company in 1949. While Joe could never have imagined that Kevin would one day own Quaker Marine Supply, that’s exactly what happened.
Last summer, when Max’s favorite Quaker Marine hat showed up in Kevin’s life, we like to believe it was a wink from Max and a nod from Joe. That’s just how things work around here.
QMS: We’re up here in Sutton Place, and I’m kicking myself for not having hung out around here before. It has a real old New York charm. I know you’re a native New Yorker who has stuck it out here for decades now. Tell me about growing up here.
Robert Rufino: Well I actually grew up downtown, in Chinatown, which was a much different place than it is today, more like a village than anything. My father drove a taxi, and my mother ran a card shop. I went to a missionary school, and really had a great childhood. A little bit after going to FIT where I majored in window display and merchandising, l had the good fortune to start my career at Henri Bendel on 57th Street, which was quite extraordinary.
QMS: Wow, as I understand it, that was THE store of that time in New York. What did you learn while you were there?
Robert Rufino: It was a very special place, almost like a private club. And at that time window dressing was an art form – we called it street theater. Working at Bendel opened my eyes to a whole new world. Not only did I design the windows at Bendel’s, but I was in charge of store design and merchandising. Early on I knew I was dyslexic, and I had a talent for putting things together. My eyes and hands were my tools – whether I was designing a fashion window or a beautiful still life.
QMS: It sounds like you’ve always had a keen eye for style. How did that translate into your career post-Bendel’s?
Robert Rufino: Bendel’s being what it was, I was so entrenched in fashion that it was very normal for me to go on to work in fashion magazines. What started in retail led to me becoming a fashion editor for many years, at various magazines like Elle Fashion to The New York Times, Harper's Bazaar, and others. Eventually, I was Vice President of Worldwide Creative Services at Tiffany & Co. for 13 years.
QMS: Then you made a shift back to magazines. What prompted that?
Robert Rufino: I felt I had accomplished what I wanted at Tiffany’s and it was an honor to design windows for this landmark American brand. I wanted to return to the magazine world, but not fashion. I had the good fortune to work for Stephen Drucker at House Beautiful for about three years. From there, I went to Architectural Digest, Elle Decor back to House Beautiful, and now I work for myself, contributing to Frederic (put out by Schumacher) and do other projects for various magazines like Elle Decor, Town & Country and Veranda. I also consult certain brands.
QMS: You've described yourself as a producer. Can you elaborate on that role in the context of editorial work?
Robert Rufino: Yes, I do prefer the term “producer” over “stylist”. As an editor with my experience, producing a shoot is like being an Art Director. You set the stage for the photoshoot. It's a collaboration between you and the photographer, especially for magazines with a distinct voice. You have to master the process of working, of evolving an idea into reality. Whether you're designing a window or a dress, you have an idea, but you don't know how it's going to look until you start draping fabric or putting it together.
QMS: Let’s shift to your personal style for a moment. What specific moments or experiences influenced your approach to dressing?
Robert Rufino: The late '70s and early '80s in New York were influential. It was a time of individual expression. People dressed so individually; there was an explosion of personal style with figures like Steven Burrows, Stephen Sprouse, Halston, Perry Ellis. People wore what they wanted, unlike today, where it feels like everyone is wearing more of a uniform.
QMS: How did that era shape your personal style?
Robert Rufino: It's all about how you put things together. It’s the way you wear your hat. Real style is something you have within you, not a trend. It's about finding what makes you comfortable and being yourself. For example, I’ve always loved wearing blue, even now. When I was at Tiffany’s I used to wear a lot of beautiful deep blue suits, but now I’ll wear jeans and a blue shirt, and maybe a sport coat instead of the full suit but it's still clean and classic.
QMS: What music were you listening to back then? What was the soundtrack to that era for you?
Robert Rufino: I was a big Supremes fan! Also, Marvin Gaye, Stevie Wonder, Aretha Franklin… so many artists. Roberta Flack, Eddie Kendricks, Diana Ross. I was a total Motown boy! But I always kept a little room for the Stones, the Beatles, and Janice Joplin.
QMS: You have all these great cultural reference points that the new generation hasn’t lived through. I’m curious, what are your thoughts on the younger generation and their approach to creativity and style?
Robert Rufino: In a way, all these young people have access to even more cultural reference points than I did growing up because of the internet. But I think you lose something when everything is so readily available. We had to search for everything ourselves, not just find it on the internet or Instagram. You know, shopping online is different, people aren't really looking at what they're buying – the fabric, the fit, the whole retail experience, which is what I grew up with. Life was simpler for us. But I know creativity finds a way to thrive in every generation, so the kids will be all right.
