The Old Mill Inn: A North Fork Institution

On the banks of Mattituck Creek, the Old Mill has spent more than two centuries evolving alongside the North Fork. We stopped by to photograph our Fall Collection and talk with owner Anthony Martignetti about restoring a local institution without losing what made it worth saving.

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Anthony Martignetti — Owner, The Old Mill Inn

The Old Mill has been part of Mattituck life for more than two centuries. When did you first encounter the building, and what made you want to take it on?

In 2006, seemingly a lifetime ago, my brother and I opened Brinkley’s, a fantastic bar and pub on a then very quiet corner of Broome Street in NYC — at that point more Chinatown than the Soho it is today. From the outset, we only served New York State Wines and Beers, as well as many local spirits, oysters, vegetables and cheeses. Many of these were from The North Fork of Long Island, an area I had never heard of, let alone been to. I drove out to find where all these great products were being grown, farmed, caught and made and was blown away by the country feel and the beauty of the area. I decided right then that someday I would find a way to be involved on The North Fork. Fast forward to 2018, when I was looking for an old farm or vineyard to renovate, and I saw a very dilapidated Old Mill Inn, closed and falling into the water. Against everyone’s advice I jumped at the chance to buy this down-on-its-luck historic building with a loose idea of how to bring it back to its former glory

The building still holds traces of its earlier lives – from the original mill drive shaft to the names signed across the beams. Was there a detail or discovery during the restoration that changed the way you understood the place?

The hundreds of names dating back to the 1870s, handwritten on the beams first by mill workers and then bar patrons, sometimes send shivers down my spine. Knowing these men and women, now long gone, were standing on a chair painting their names on beams of a building they clearly loved gives such an intimate glimpse into the past. I feel that, in a way, they are still there with us, especially when I am alone in the building.

The Old Mill has been a grist mill, a tavern, an inn, and a gathering place for generations. What kind of atmosphere did you want to create for its latest chapter?

It had to remain The Old Mill. And I don’t just mean in name. The Old Mill has been a bar that welcomed everyone for 120 years. It needed to stay welcoming, casual and a great place to have a drink with an old friend or a new one you’ve just met at the horseshoe bar. It would have been a travesty to transform it into a whitewashed Hamptons style restaurant. What I did need to change was to serve great food, which The Old Mill hadn’t ever been known for. Now we do, and Chef Joe and I are so fortunate to have great relationships with local oyster and vegetable farmers and fishermen, that we serve locally sourced, organic and seasonal food that we and our guests love.

After the shoot, we hung around the patio on Mattituck Creek and watched the boats going by over a couple oysters and a lobster roll. I have to say, the location by the water is incredible. How has being on the Creek shaped the character of the restaurant in the present day?

Being on Mattituck Inlet (The Creek if you’re a real local) is a working waterway. We are surrounded by commercial fishermen and next to an oyster farm. For our guests who are only used to seeing marinas filled with boats used for leisurely purposes, it gives them a great idea where local seafood comes from. It’s also great for those who live on the creek, because a lot of them can boat here quicker than they can drive. And what's better than getting back into your boat after a few rums at your favorite bar and cruising home under the moonlight?

We photographed our Fall Collection at the Old Mill Inn. What made the building and Quaker Marine feel like a natural fit?

I’ve been wearing Quaker Marine at home and at work for years. It’s classic, well made and is very comfortable for my long days where I can be found on our vineyard, our boat or at The Old Mill having a cocktail with my wife and our friends without changing. My shirts and sweaters strike the right balance between being dressed nicely and always ready to do some work.

What's next for you on the North Fork?

My wife Angela and I have been farming grapes and making wine for the past five seasons. This spring, we’re opening our tasting room in a 19th century barn we are currently renovating on the vineyard. It’s called Old Sound Vineyard. Look us up and come say hello — our wines really are fantastic.